In retrospect - Road trip on the Swedish west westcoast and southern Norway - Part 3

Our plan was to sleep out in the free this night, somewhere near the coastal area of southern Norway.

We actually arrived so late at our destination (due to a mishap earlier in the day - forgotten item at a stop, so we had to drive back and ended up more or less going in a circle for 3 hours due to that) that it was already dark. No worries though. We looked up something that resembled a foresty area on a map and headed there.

It had actually been quite rainy and stormy earlier in the evening, so I guess being late had the positive of the storm having ended. Otherwise I bet we would've been quite miserable, being late AND wet.

We had, of course, brought our head torches, so that we could rummage around in the car with the torch light and only bring what we needed for the night and next morning. So off we headed into the night-moist forest. We each had our own tents, mattresses, sleeping bags, under layer of warm clothing in case the night got chilly (wasn't so bad actually) and one of us brought a pillow. I actually brought two mattresses, because I usually experience that the cold conducts through the mattress and I end up freezing. I have one of those old style mattress rolls and an inflatable one too. I even considered using a foil blanket to really boost heat saving.

Yeah so we had those too, foil blankets. 

Aside from that we had a storm kitchen (trangia), a gas burner, water for coffee and porridge in the morning, other food stuff (bread and such) and regular hygiene stuff.

 

The right of public access to the wilderness otherwise known as the freedom to roam is strongly established in the Nordic countries. The rights include hiking in the wild, picking mushrooms, sleeping in a tent ( although not too near private residences), swimming in lakes, kayaking, fishing with a rod in fresh water. They also include some obligations, however. You are not allowed to harm, disturb or damage wildlife or crops or pick endangered plant species. Littering is forbidden! If there are no trash cans, you bring all trash with you out of the nature zone.

Sometimes in the summer using open fire is forbidden. In Norway this applies from April to September, in the other countries it depends on forest fire risk, which from time to time can be substantial in some or many areas.

In Norway the freedom to roam applies to the so called "utmark" - areas without private residence, industry, farmland etc. Crossing farmland is only allowed during winter.

Right-of-access - Norway

After a while we found a tent site in the darkness. We picked it for its open space and trees that could be used for a tarp, rain cover. A bit of fiddling in the dark got all tents erected and by that time it was time to go to bed.
The first picture above is actually taken at about 1 AM, so the sun doesn't completely set even at that low latitude.

We had expected more rain, but luckily got to wake up to a fabulously sunny morning.

Before long we had breakfast underway, boiling water for coffee and porridge, setting up a little breakfast area. The colours were crisp and clear and the air fresh and uplifting.

Packing our gear went swiftly and luckily the heat of the sun dried most of the tent fabric. I always find it unsatisfying to pack a moist tent cover or under-layer.

Next we headed off to a crag not too far away from where we had spent the night.

In retrospect - Göteborgsvarvet - festival level half marathon

I used to think that I couldn't run, that I simply didn't have the build for it.  Running has always been a struggle for me when I was younger. I remember the dreaded track runs at school and having to try measure up to all the others and the burning in my throat from the cold air, and then coughing the rest of the day.
I didn't stop trying, however, but it took years before I realized I was a slow runner. Really slow. I had simply tried too hard before.
When I finally figured out the right tempo was more or less the same as ultra-marathon runners use (super slow) I actually found that running was fun! I started looking for official running events and considered some trail runs. I found out that I could do 10 km and somewhere around 12 km I got the idea, why not 21?

So, with a spot at Göteborgsvarvet, a half marathon, that almost has reached festival status in Gothenburg.

Göteborgsvarvet

It's ridiculously big and constantly growing, I found a more structured training program, increasing the distance gradually. I actually got so invested in running that I sometimes turned down social events in favor of running.
I didn't feel the need to do 21 km before the actual run, but being able to do close to that was the goal.
I found a program online that I revised to fit my needs and I think I settled for the standard increase of max 10 % per week, along with training of stabilizing running muscles - core and lower back in specific. Important!!

I think Runnersworld has some good programs that you can use. Many programs include intervals, tempo training and such. I don't really fancy those types of running (burning throat mentioned earlier), so I just skipped all that.

At this time I found my favourite brand of running shoes - the only ones that have never caused trouble for my knees, Saucony. For a while I had 4 different kinds of Saucony. A soft soled one, Kinvara, which I stopped running in though, because they were too soft. Hattori, a minimalist, zero drop one, that I still sometimes walk with - I don't run minimalist anymore, it was no good for my feet I realized. Kilkenny a thin shoe with spikes which I've mostly used when cross country running on the Faroe Islands (even though they are racing shoes) and then the ones I still use, my regular 12 mm drop, neutral shoes, Ride.

The run is really fun. As mentioned above it is more like a festival. There are people EVERYWHERE. Some runners go through it with different outfits. There is music along the way and some people use the opportunity to engage in a Gbg-Varvet-party. I remember passing a residential area where some people were sitting at the windows a couple of floors up, lowering a bucket filled with ice and gin shots for the runners to grab as they passed. I politely declined, laughing.

The route is a little bit hilly and I know that some people find it a bit arduous. If you're prepared you wont really feel it, is my experience. There are a few ups and downs ranging from sea level to 60 meters, so nothing dramatic. You run along the quay, cross a couple of large bridges and cross through the center of Gothenburg and the start and end is in the greenest area of town, Slottsskogen (Castle forest) close to the botanical garden.

There are shorter runs for kids too and many people use this opportunity to set up a pick-nick site near the finish-line and hang out in sun. After my run several members of my family have done it and hanging out during the run and after has become a thing. I actually gave my brother a spot as a gift without asking him and he ended up doing the race the year after.

I haven't had the opportunity to do the run again, but one day maybe. :-)

In retrospect - Road trip on the Swedish west westcoast and southern Norway - Part 2

When snorkeling and hanging out in Gothenburg was over and done with  (https://adventuresoup.blogspot.com/2018/10/in-retrospect-swedish-west-coast.html) the trip continued northward.

I'm a (forever) noob climber and my brother is really a more proficient one. The west coast is known for its many crags (check out 27crags.com) and he had found one that looked fun. We go to places where there are low grade routes for me and higher grade for him.

We brought all climbing gear (harness, shoes, carabiners, rope, helmets, gloves,  quick-draws) and headed off toward Uddevalla, a town that through history has been part of Sweden, Norway and Denmark in turns.. over and over...
Nowadays it's a pretty pleasant town, with a water front, hilly topography and lies close to interesting nature and towns.

The crag we decided to try out can be found on Vindön (wind island, red arrow.

https://27crags.com/crags/vindon

The area has a lot of interesting rock to climb and has 50 routes at levels from 4 traditional or 4+ sport to 6c+ traditional and 8a+ sport.
There is also a single boulder leveled 6b.
I had been climbing for several days already in a row (not a good idea) and my fingers and forearms were bummed.

The rock looks fun and there are quite many routes here. The longest routes, I think, are actually multi pitch (you climb up, secure yourself up there, bring your rope up and continue upward from that point - several pitches).

I didn't do a lot of climbing at Vindön. Instead I mostly stood on the ground and secured Ben, who on the other hand tried several routes, but he too had been climbing a bit more than usual. At some point we realized we had to keep traveling toward Norway. We decided that this place is so much worth visiting again.

As dusk made its way towards us we set off northward in my blue Peugeot. Driving in  Sweden is easy and the roads are good. Max speed is 120 kmh (130 kmh in Denmark) and there are loads of possibilities for a break on the road.

Quite soon we reached the Norwegian border. The border control is quite relaxed and doesn't cost anything.

Driving in  Norway is pretty much the same as in Sweden, but there are loads of road tolls, so you either should  register your car (so as not to receive the highest payable rate) or if you go there often, get an autopass.

http://www.autopass.no/visitors-payment

There are loads of tunnels in Norway. We only passed the ones near the border this time, but depending on where in the country you are you might be in really long tunnels, in sometimes steep angles, with intersections in the deep. Makes for some interesting driving.

By the time we got to Norway it was getting dark and we still had some ways to go to reach the area, Drammen, where we had planned on staying the night in a tent. More about that in the next post...

In retrospect - Road trip on the Swedish west westcoast and southern Norway - Part 1

So this was a short, but intensive road trip, traveling along the northern west coast of Sweden up to southern Norway during a short vacation.

Sweden to the right, Norway to the left
and the top of Denmark below

As most locals know, the summer of 2018 has been quite amazing. We had sunshine, warm weather and more sunshine.

The week started in Gothenburg, Sweden, where I, as usual, spent a load of vacation time working on my laptop due to a deadline. That meant I, during breaks, got to see some of the local area instead.
My brother and sister have made a habit of snorkeling in the archipelago of Gothenburg. If you haven't been there, go! Summer on the west coast of Sweden is GOLD! GOLD I tell you!!

I don't have a wet suit, but I had brought my goggles with me, so one day we headed off to Hönö, one of the islands just west
of the city (red arrow). You can drive all way, the ferries out to the islands are part of the road network and under the jurisdiction of the road administration, so you can just drive right on to the ferry and over to the islands.
The roads on the islands are narrow and a bit worn by the harsh coastal weather, but ok to drive on. On Hönö there is a parking lot in a foresty area just north of town - you can't drive right up to the beach here, walking is required. Actually I have never seen cars right on the beach in Sweden. In Denmark it is another matter and people will park right at the water line, in order to not have to waste physical strength to get there.

The west coast is mostly rocky. The rocks are smooth and rounded in most places and here and there you can find traces of the ice age, such as completely rounded holes in the rock. Potholes they are called in Swedish.

In many places you can find a private nook, with clear and calm waters to swim or snorkel in. I would suggest bringing beach shoes or something of the like, even though I've not used such before now. The rocks can be a bit unpleasant to put your bare feet on since they are so covered with kelp and you can't really see whats hiding underneath.

If you are into fishing, trout is a popular goal for many fishers along the coast line. If you are more into mackerel you need to be on a boat. 

6th of October - Morocco - road trip, red soil and friendliness

My final Saturday in Morocco began kind of half spontaneously. The night before I had a bit of inactivity-anxiety. I had though about what one of the guys had talked about the day before. He told me about places worth seeing in relatively close vicinity to Marrakesh and I figured, what the smeck, why not. When will I be back in Africa again? No idea. So I googled it a bit and booked a day trip starting the next morning. I booked it so late, close to midnight, that I wasn't sure it would go through as pickup time was 7:30.
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The whole thing ended up in a waay too short night. All my clothing was used up so I did some old fashioned backpacker's laundry (hand soap and lather in the sink). I decided to try sleep as long as possible and got up at a bit before 7 AM to give myself just enough of time to get my stuff packed for the day. Breakfast time at the riad hadn't started yet, but I thought I'd just figure something out later. Lucky me getting up early enough, because as it turned out my pickup was early too, 7:15. So I skittered around in my room to find all that I needed to bring with me. Contact lenses into backpack, water bottle, sunglasses and a sweater.
The pickup guy drove me to a spot near the main plaza where the rest of the day trippers would show up. I didn't have enough cash to pay for the trip and had to look for a working ATM. The fourth (4!) one I tried actually functioned normally.
When the minibus finally arrived it was quickly filled with screaming Chilean women... well, actually three (but it felt like a buss load) and a young Italian couple.

We were swiftly outside of the city and I soon fell into an observer mode and completely drank in the fantastic, red scenery. At one point I was very surprised to see something that seemed to be a female lion, lounging in a dry river bed with its back to the road, somewhere in between Marrakesh and the mountains. I was so stunned that I didn't get a pic of it. A lion? So far from the mountains? Maybe I was imagining it.... A huge dog maybe? But it looked just right for a lion. I don't know.

Our first stop was in the mountains on a col of a sort and offered the chance for me to grab my first coffee of the day. Really good coffee at that. Two espressos, yummie.
At another scenic spot I took a pic of the Italian couple, so that they got something with both of them, together. The girl then took a pic of me and kept laughing since the wind held my hair in every other direction than with gravity.

The next stop was at an argon oil shop, where grabbed the chance to look at some products and actually bought a little. I received a quick history of the production of handmade oil. I highly doubt that that is the way the oil is made these days, though. The women showing off the process were veeery bored too ;)

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A bit poorer, but all the happier our trip continued toward Aït Benhaddou, through the red landscape mottled with desert bushes and palm trees.

I started noticing my skipped breakfast at midday. Luckily I had a single slice of bread (totally crumbled by now) left in my pack. That became the energy source of the first half of the day.

We arrived in Aït Benhaddou at 13-ish. Our guide didn't really know anything about the place so I had to google it later. The area is nowadays a UNESCO world heritage site and the old buildings are quite interesting. They are made of adobe and I find they look like big sand castles, some having four towers, one at each corner. Some famous movies have sections filmed there, Gladiator for one...

There was a fantastic view from the top of the hill. Aït Benhaddou used to be an important stop in the trade route between Sahara and Marrakesh.

I was very fascinated by this place and was so immersed in looking at everything that I was totally taken aback when Chris and his sister suddenly stepped out of a little house in front of me. Such coincidence.They were wearing backpacks and day-packs, sunburns and smiles. How fun and funny. I would've thought they'd be only halfway on the 1000 Kasbah road by that time.
They seemed to be having a great time. Wow, would've loved to join them yesterday, but, as previously said, wouldn't have wanted to crash a sibling-party, although some people just spontaneously seem like easy ones to travel with. Very sweet people.
After a little chit-chat and a couple of hugs and farewells we went our separate ways and I kept smiling the rest of the day.











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My day trip group had lunch there in Aït Benhaddou before heading to Ouarzazate. That town was really not very interesting. It has a film museum, which I have little interest in. I don't think that anyone from the group went into the museum. Instead some of us headed to the nearby souk. I bought a couple of tiny tajines, took pictures and was happy.

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The trip back went the same route again and I got even more lovely pictures of the red soil, red buildings, people and mountains. The feeling of wanting to just grab my backpack and go walking in that nature was palpable... but not now... someday maybe...

I got back to Marrakesh, feeling completely at ease. I spent my evening at the riad and began preparing for my journey back home.

Home... so strange, feels like I've been away for months...
.........................................................

This trip has really given me a feeling of needing more travel and to focus on what is important. I suspect, however, that the feeling is based on the people I've met and spoken to during this week. Some I'd really love to meet again. I also want to meet more people, new ones, as well as these ones in their own habitat. I mean, we know that we have some interests in common, that is why we've met in the first place, but how different are we in our everyday lives? How alike or unlike each other are we really? During this week some have been peppery and quick, others silent and unobtrusive, some functioned as older siblings, hearing and taking care that no one was left outside, and some took the lead and set the pace and made sure that everyone kept hydrated and fed. All in all I guess the people in the groups completed each other.

So... what now? Tomorrow I'll head home. It's going to be a long and boring trip. 
I have no more travels planned for this year, so no blogging for a while, at least not travel blogging. I will add some fixed posts regarding different outdoors topics when I have the time. Stay tuned for those...
Also, I need to work on my French. I suspect I will be needing more of it in the future :-)
Well then, Lis over and out!

5th of October - Morocco - hang out in Marrakesh - post expedition blues - we've been to many places, but not enough of them

Many of the WMT group left town already in the morning, heading back to their respective countries and cities, but a handful of us stayed for a while longer. Today we spent our day in the city of Marrakesh doing regular touristy stuff. A few had the time to have breakfast together and chat a bit before some left to go to the airport, the siblings to their Atlas trip and we others prepared for our city tour.

My plan was to check into another hotel today, one that I'd booked months ago, a really nice riad with a pool and lots of space, but I decided to start off with just leaving my things in the room with some of the others, though, and go shopping with them. We headed off toward the center plaza and market with all it's intense shopping hysteria. So much glitter and glam, spice, music, incense, animals, colours, glass, decorations, brass and so on and on. Our goal was the Palais Badia. There were huge stork nests on the walls around the palace, some balancing quite precariously.  The palace was once upon a time the largest building around with large pools of water. It now houses a Minbar, a pulpet where an imam stands for the sermon, from the 12th century. Pics were not allowed though. Under the ruins there were former prison areas with old shackles and chains. In the old times people would get 15 day prison sentences and guilt needed to be proven. If found guilty people were either branded with hot irons or lost limbs.
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On the way back to the market, I visited a synagogue museum. Quite beautiful actually with its deep blue decorations.
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I had set my mind on trying to haggle at the market. I'm reeeally bad at this art and I totally prefer set prices, having grown up in a culture where what you see on the price tag is the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth. Here though, it is expected and if you don't they will tell you to do it. The salesman will actually get disappointed if you don't. I think I did fairly well though. We passed the market three or more times this day. I tried asking for a price, more or less laughing at them, shaking my head, offering my price and they would think it outrageous. We would struggle a bit. I left shaking my head. They'd call me back after a minute and we'd reach an understanding, they made some, I lost some, a win-win/lose-lose situation and both of us more or less happy =)
I got two brass lamps, a brass candle light stand, a seat pouf and a tiny tea pot for Moroccan mint tea (will get the actual tea at home though).

In the afternoon I got my backpack and headed to my other hotel, Riad Viva, a lovely, classical riad with a fountain in the center, beautiful decorations and a little pool on the roof terrace. On arrival I was offered mint tea (surprise), had a wonderful shower and hopped into the pool.
Later I rejoined the others. Two more in the group were leaving in the evening, Sophie and Ben. We had time to go for drinks at the bar we had been to the day before. Jemma and I decided to try some gray wine. We had never heard of it before so we wanted to find out just what the name entailed. Unfortunately we found out why we never have heard of it. I don't think anyone would buy such a thing back home. It tasted .... well it didn't taste, but it had an aftertaste of yeast, as in sake, but without the niceties of the Japanese beverage. The whole thing turned into a joke and somewhere in between poetry got involved. Our wine became a haiku:

"Grey wine, beautiful.
The bottle, the colour, good.
The taste, not so much."
Jemma.

Quotes and poetry became a theme this evening and as we waited to receive the rest of the drinks and mused about the wine bottle Hillary popped the descriptive:

"bottle neck of the bar"
Hillary

Later came:
"We've been to many places, but not enough of them." as we talked about traveling and post expedition blues.

When Ben and Sophie departed, we headed to a restaurant that Jemma had found in her tourist book. A very nice place with lots of decorations and live music. We had a three course meal - the last real one in genuine Moroccan style with small tajine pots for different veggies, large tajines for the hot food and fruit for dessert. We had the worst background music, however. Some 90:ies melted butter pop music.

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As we left the restaurant we bought even more things from the last open shops. We walked through the nightly chaos on the plaza filled with music, blinking lights, incense and people and the group decided to walk me home. They all received farewell hugs and goodnights.

While I uploaded some pictures in the night I decided to follow my adventure guts and googled activities for  the next day. After having talked to Chris earlier I realized I would regret it if I didn't.